economie

I stayed at the hotel recently named the best in the world. After spending $900 for one night, I’m not sure I agree.

October 17, 20240
Capella Bangkok didn’t look fussy from the outside.

Paul Oswell

From the outside, Capella Bangkok has a clean, almost utilitarian look. Its square, uniform exterior overlooks the city’s Chao Phraya River.

I thought it resembled a cool, unshowy Scandinavian office building with a subtle and assuredly simple design.

It’s understated, hinting at unfussy luxury compared to its peers — say, the famously sumptuous Mandarin Oriental.

I had booked the cheapest room available.
I got a complimentary cocktail as I arrived.

Paul Oswell

I arrived at 2 p.m., an hour before the hotel’s official check-in time.

Guests are received in the hotel’s private Living Room lounge. As I checked in, I was served a complimentary drink and given a cold towel.

Although I was early, my room was available, and a concierge walked me through the hotel’s hangar-like corridors. The public spaces are adorned with abstract art in earthy tones, and the aesthetic is elite but subtle.

It immediately felt like a low-key retreat for the wealthy, not a place to see and be seen. The staff I saw all wore AirPods, like hip Secret Service agents.

My room delivered an excellent first impression.
The bathroom had two large sinks.

Paul Oswell

I appreciated the beautiful bathroom, which had a chic, egg-shaped tub and a separate rain shower. The double vanity had plenty of storage and options for mood lighting, too.

I could see the river from my private balcony.
The lounger came with pillows, too.

Paul Oswell

It had a large, cushioned lounger that could easily fit two people.

The top-tier attention to detail really stood out.
The Auriga Wellness facility has a Vitality Pool.

Paul Oswell

During my trip, I booked a spa session at Capella’s gleaming Auriga Wellness facility.

It offered unique treatments in addition to more typical Thai massages. I booked an hour of Tok Sen, a traditional Thai healing practice that involves getting your back tapped with a small hammer.

Before my appointment, I relaxed in the Vitality Pool and used the steam room. The spa has the air of a high-class country club, and the treatment and therapist were both excellent.

I was excited for the nightly happy hour, but I had an underwhelming experience.
The hotel’s Thai restaurant, Phra Nakhon, was a decent substitute for its signature dining room.

Paul Oswell

I was disappointed the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Côte By Mauro Colagreco, was closed the night I visited.

Instead, I enjoyed excellent squid and great service at its Phra Nakhon Thai restaurant, which was much livelier than the happy hour.

After dinner, I headed for a nightcap at the hotel’s craft cocktail bar, Stella, an atmospheric nook with an upscale, retro feel to it. It was Jazz Night, but the live music seemed to be lost on the small crowd, who were all looking at their phones.

The bartender mixed me a perfectly sweet and savory Gin Basil and the service was great, but the atmosphere was a little underwhelming.

My stay came with breakfast at Phra Nakhon.
There were a lot of great aspects to the hotel, but some details were lacking

Paul Oswell

The hotel offers flexible check-in and check-out times based on availability, so I was glad I could extend my stay by a few hours.

I used this time to luxuriate in my room and take a dip in the hotel’s beautiful pool. Attendants brought me towels and cold water, another reflection of the generally high levels of service during my stay.

However, we have to be a bit picky when we’re talking about the supposed best hotel in the world.

In terms of service, I was still a tad disappointed I had to chase down my culturist and that my breakfast order wasn’t on point.

And although I appreciated Capella Bangkok’s complimentary pressing service, I found it a little confusing. It wasn’t clear if the service light worked, so I had to chase down housekeeping to make sure I had a shirt for dinner.

The Capella Bangkok was an excellent hotel, but not the world’s best, in my opinion.
I’d say Capella Bangkok is a great hotel but not the best.

Paul Oswell

My experience of the Capella brand, both here and in Sydney, is an overwhelmingly positive one. Sydney was one of the best hotel experiences I’ve had, which is especially remarkable as it had just opened.

At Capella Bangkok, I feel some services could be tightened up a little or personalized — more could be done with the happy hour that I so loved in Australia.

I know I’m splitting hairs with my notes here, but these are the details that matter at the highest levels of hospitality.

Overall, Capella Bangkok feels like a fine high-end urban resort for more reclusive types.

Although I agree that it’s an impressive spot and likely one of the best hotels in Bangkok, other five-star spots in the city (The Siam and The Four Seasons, for example) are more my speed and offer better value.